travel

Farewell to the 'vomit comet': scillonian iii's final voyage

The salty air of Penzance carried a bittersweet mix of excitement and apprehension this week as passengers lined up to board the Scillonian III, the venerable ferry that has connected mainland Britain to the Isles of Scilly for nearly half a century. Its final season is underway, marking the end of an era for a vessel affectionately – and somewhat derisively – known as the “vomit comet.”

A lifelong connection to the sea

For some, the journey to the remote archipelago is a cherished adventure. For others, it’s a test of sea legs. Sholto Blackwell, 43, a self-proclaimed “Scillonian III superfan,” embodies the devotion. He’s sailed the route since childhood holidays, and the ship holds a nearly familial significance. “She’s been a constant in my life,” Blackwell declared, seemingly unfazed by the ship's infamous tendency to pitch and roll. “I’d rather be sea-sick on that vessel than not be on her at all.” His dedication is so profound that he founded the Scilly III Appreciation Group, a testament to the vessel’s enduring appeal, boasting over 4,000 members.

The upcoming change isn’t just about a new ship; it represents a shift in maritime transport. The Scillonian IV, currently being fitted out in Vietnam, promises a smoother ride thanks to “roll and pitch reduction systems.” It will also carry more passengers and offer greater speed, a pragmatic upgrade, but one that leaves many nostalgic for the character of its predecessor.

More than just a ferry: a social hub

More than just a ferry: a social hub

The Scillonian III isn’t just a mode of transport; it’s a vital thread in the social fabric of the Isles of Scilly. Residents, familiar with the ship's quirks, have their preferred spots – often the windowless lower saloon, where the comforting hum of the engines drowns out the swell. Former shipmaster Pete Crawford recalls a lifetime of sightings, from humpback whales breaching off Land’s End to a super pod of hundreds of dolphins, moments that transformed routine voyages into extraordinary encounters.

The current master, Dave Redgrave, emphasizes the ship's unique design. “There’s lots of curves in it. Nowadays everything’s square,” he observes, highlighting the Scillonian III’s distinctive charm. He acknowledges its reputation for a “bumpy” ride—a consequence of its shallow draft—but counters that many days offer a tranquil passage.

A legacy of five million passengers

A legacy of five million passengers

Launched in May 1977, the Scillonian III has transported over five million passengers, fueling tourism and supporting the local economy. Second engineer Steve George, who has spent 39 years tending to the ship’s engines, ovens, and even toilets, recounts countless conversations with fascinated visitors. Even he, after years of service, occasionally admits, “I’ll be glad to get there today,” a sentiment shared by many who've endured the Atlantic crossing.

As the 2026 season draws to a close, the Scillonian III’s departure leaves a void. It’s a reminder that even the most reliable constants are subject to the relentless currents of change, leaving behind a legacy of shared memories and a salty tang of nostalgia.