Covent garden gets a taste of trullo's magic at burro
Conor Gadd, the name synonymous with understated Italian excellence at Islington's Trullo, has quietly expanded his empire. Burro, his new venture nestled in a Floral Court courtyard near Covent Garden, isn't a flashy declaration of conquest, but a subtle, assured arrival that promises to redefine the neighborhood’s dining scene.
A familiar hand, a fresh setting
For those unfamiliar with Trullo, a brief introduction is necessary: it’s a restaurant I’ve been recommending for nearly fifteen years, a reliable beacon of culinary quality amidst fluctuating trends – from the fleeting obsession with communal benches to the current clamor for reservation-free dining. Trullo remained steadfast, a grown-up establishment serving consistently superb Food. Now, Gadd is transplanting that ethos—that sense of considered, honest cooking—to a more centrally located address. The space itself is a welcome respite from the surrounding tourist bustle; a serene, almost monastic haven with a color palette that favors unobtrusive beige and taupe, punctuated by subtle ombre shifts. Real tablecloths, a luxury increasingly rare, provide a touch of old-world elegance.
The menu leans towards the hearty, yet refined, side. The Venetian chicken liver paté, served on a thick slab of bruschetta, is substantial enough to be a main course, begging for a crisp white wine or a bracing negroni. Fried artichokes with bottarga deliver a delightful salty tang, and the focaccia is, quite simply, exemplary – glossy, crisp, springy, and moist. Gadd’s attention to detail is evident in every bite.
Burro's kitchen moves with confidence. While the primi offerings—tagliarini with clams and strozzapreti with pork and chilli—are appealing, the secondi truly shine. A whole lemon sole, bathed in a prosecco sauce, is a testament to simple ingredients prepared with expertise. The vitello al burro, Gadd’s take on veal Milanese, is a triumph of buttery richness and garlic-infused flavor. And the braised beef shin on polenta? Pure, unadulterated comfort Food, the polenta practically swimming in a sea of melted butter, the beef yielding to the slightest pressure.
The restaurant’s size belies its serene atmosphere. It's a sanctuary of calm amidst the surrounding chaos, a welcome contrast to the fire-breathing buskers and the ubiquitous Guinness hats that have become a Covent Garden fixture. The staff, many veterans from Trullo, demonstrate an impressive working knowledge of the menu, readily guiding diners through the various options.
But the dish that truly lingered – the highlight, if you will – was the fettuccine with duck and porcini ragu. A clever evolution of Trullo's celebrated beef shin ragu, it’s a dish that could easily claim the title of best pasta in this increasingly crowded postcode. Rich, decadent, and utterly fabulous, it’s a portion designed for sharing—or, perhaps, for a fiercely determined individual.
The inevitable question arises: does central London need another Italian restaurant? Locatelli remains a stalwart, Charlie Mellor’s Osteria Vibrato is drawing rave reviews, and even Jamie’s Italian has staged a remarkable comeback. Yet, Burro manages to distinguish itself. Even their playful reimagining of tiramisu – a pile of warm ricotta dough, sugared and scattered with blitzed ladyfingers atop a coffee cream laced with marsala – feels less like a cynical gimmick and more like a delightful collision of Blackpool promenade doughnuts and a Vespa ride through Bologna. It's either a stroke of genius or a descent into glorious madness – I suspect it's the former.
Burro doesn't scream for attention, it quietly commands it. It's a testament to the power of understated excellence, a reminder that sometimes, the best things in life are the ones you have to seek out. And in a city saturated with culinary noise, that’s a message worth savoring.