Dolce & gabbana pivot: from exclusion to gen z embrace?
Milan Fashion Week saw a dramatic, if somewhat belated, shift from Dolce & Gabbana. Just months after a menswear show criticized for its near-exclusivity of white models, the Italian powerhouse unveiled a womenswear collection boasting a significant presence of women of colour – a move that suggests a conscious, if perhaps reactive, recalibration of brand image.
The brand's identity takes center stage
Rather than address the controversy surrounding the January show directly, the design duo steered the conversation towards a more personal narrative: their own artistic identity. “Our collections speak to us, our identity, our values,” Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana declared after the show, a sentiment that subtly sidesteps acknowledging past missteps. They asserted a desire to create instantly recognizable garments, pieces that evoke the unequivocal response of “That’s Dolce & Gabbana.” The challenge, of course, lies in reconciling this self-proclaimed artistic vision with a history of questionable choices and cultural insensitivity.
For decades, Dolce & Gabbana has largely adhered to a romanticized, arguably stereotypical, vision of Italian femininity. The brand’s aesthetic has long been anchored in the archetypes of the Sicilian widow and the alluring mistress, a portrayal reinforced by the tailored silhouettes and opulent details. Saturday’s show introduced a new figure into this canon: the Gen Z hipster, sporting ripped denim and a satin bra-top—a deliberate attempt to capture a younger demographic.
The collection itself was a riot of color, predominantly black punctuated by strategic bursts of scarlet and emerald green. Fur, a recurring element in past collections, appeared in a faux iteration, a nod to the growing ethical concerns within the Fashion industry—though Milan and Paris remain behind London and New York in banning animal fur altogether. Crucifix earrings and Cinema Paradiso-inspired baker-boy hats added a touch of nostalgic Italian flair.
But what’s truly remarkable is the overt display of lingerie. Nearly half of the models showcased undergarments beneath sheer lace dresses, and one model dared to pair a white shirt with bloomers. This unapologetic embrace of sensuality, a Dolce & Gabbana hallmark since the 1990s, feels almost liberating in its current context—a deliberate move to sidestep political debates and focus on a more primal form of expression.
The brand’s journey hasn't been without its turbulence. Accusations of romanticizing slavery in 2012, followed by the regrettable “slave sandals” incident in 2015, and controversial statements regarding IVF and LGBTQ+ adoption, have all marred their reputation. The disastrous 2018 campaign in China, resulting in a significant loss of business, served as a stark reminder of the power of cultural sensitivity in a globalized market. Dolce & Gabbana's consistent reluctance to engage directly with criticism only amplifies the perception of a brand operating in its own insulated world.
Despite these controversies, Dolce & Gabbana remains a formidable force, generating nearly €2 billion annually and consistently dominating red carpet style—though today's tailoring choices were, to put it mildly, unconventional. The absence of regulars like Lauren Sánchez (who famously wore Dolce & Gabbana to her wedding) and Melania Trump from the front row was notable. However, the appearance of Madonna, arriving late and seated beside Anna Wintour while her music played overhead, provided a moment of classic Hollywood glamour—a fitting soundtrack to a show attempting to redefine itself.
The numbers paint a clear picture: Dolce & Gabbana’s revenue hasn't visibly suffered. However, the question lingers: can a brand built on such a specific, sometimes problematic, vision truly evolve, or will it continue to exist as a gilded anomaly, a testament to the enduring power of aesthetic conviction—even when divorced from broader social responsibility?